Veiled Chameleons are undoubtedly the most common Chamaeleo bred and domesticated as pets. Veiled Chameleons are a popularly bred and domesticated reptile in their genus because of their beauty, hardiness, and larger size. Compared to others in the genus, they are also uncomplicated when it comes to breeding which is relatively easier compared to other chameleons. The Veiled Chameleon is a native of the Arabian Peninsula, in parts of Yemen and Saudi Arabia. Although they are quite popular, they are not a species recommended for a newbie reptile handler. They are for the more advanced reptile handler who has more experience in keeping a proper enclosure and administration of the systems required. Note: be wary of unhealthy Veiled Chameleons in the market. Please choose carefully.
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HOUSING
Veiled Chameleons must be kept solo in a secured enclosure. These reptiles grow very fast and thus they will outgrow their enclosures quite quickly. A Veiled Chameleon's enclosure must be at least 30"x30"x48"-72" and 2 sides are screened for air flow. Just to let you know how fast a Veiled Chameleon grows, a 4-inch one triples in size in about 8 months by their first birthday, a full grown Veiled Chameleon will be about 15 inches long.
Branches and vines are essential for a Veiled Chameleon because they are arboreal. Many opt for a live and pesticide-free Photos or Ficus plant. They are good to go for their arboreal needs and they can munch on the leaves while they are at it. The plans should have branches that are relatively larger than the chameleon's grip. Basking spots, perch areas, and dining spots must be easily accessible using the plant's branches and vines. You can direct and support the branches and vines with cable/security ties or branch and perch tethers.
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SUBSTRATE
Use only non-particulate substrate, please. Paper towels and carpet are good options. Again, no particulate substrates. Impaction is a known problem for Veiled Chameleons if they accidentally ingest particulate substrate.
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HEATING
Veiled Chameleons require a temperature of about 90°F for the warm spots in the enclosure, 75°F for the cool spots, and up to 100°F for the basking spots. A heat mat on one side, like an under tank heat mat raises the temperature from the ground up and ceramic heat emitters, like an Infrared Ceramic Heat Emitter, provide direct and ambient heat as well. The cool spot/side should not have any heaters to keep it cool. A thermostat is a good way of controlling the Infrared Ceramic Heat Emitter and a thermometer is simple monitoring tool you should have to keep track of the temperatures.
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LIGHTING
Maintaining the right amounts of UVA/UVB for your Veiled Chameleons can be done with UV bulb. A 6-month replacement cycle must be done for all UV bulbs.
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HUMIDITY & WATER
The dry environment Veiled Chameleons are used to is quite humid. The enclosure of baby and young chameleons must be misted 2X twice per day, these allows droplets to form on the leaves and they can drink that. As they grow into adulthood, training them to drink from a water bowl is advised. Branches can be leaned into or close to the water bowl so they can access the bowl easily. A dripper or a misting system will allow droplets to form on leaves as well. When a misting system is used it can also maintain a 50%-60% humidity.
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FOOD
Crickets are a staple for Veiled Chameleons but they also like cockroaches, mealworms, wax worms, giant mealworms, and super worms. Mealworms and wax worms are fatty and they can also alter the phosphorus to calcium ratio and thus should be given sparingly.
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VITAMINS
Veiled Chameleon must be fed gut loaded crickets and other meal items. An additional dusting of calcium and vitamin powders should also be done to ensure proper nutrition.
CAGE MAINTENANCE
Cleaning the floor of the enclosure or carpet substrate 2X a week with mild detergent and changing paper towel substrate 1X per week is all you need to keep the Veiled Chameleon enclosure maintained.
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HIBERNATION
Veiled Chameleons do not hibernate and continuous heating all through winter should keep their lives normal. There may be a reduced feeding behavior which is relatively normal at winter time but this may be due to temperature changes that can affect their enclosure. All will go back to normal after winter.
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